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Migrate to Apple Passwords from your current secret-keeper

Glenn Fleishman, art by Shafer Brown

You might be interested in knowing how to embrace Apple Passwords with a bear hug, leaving behind your current password manager. If you tried Apple’s Passwords app in the past and were disappointed, you should probably give it another try. The improvements Apple has made in the last couple of releases have brought it to what I consider parity with the most important useful features of well-designed third-party password managers.

Despite that, Passwords is focused on—no surprise—passwords and password-like items: website logins, passkeys, and Time-based One-Time Passwords (TOTPs). Many password managers include a junk drawer of other kinds of structured material you can store that doesn’t map directly to Apple’s Passwords structure. If you’re mostly using a third-party system for password-esque stuff and use all Apple devices or Apple and a Windows PC, a migration is straightforward. Otherwise, it can be hairier and could involve rethinking how you store assorted data.

You can use iCloud Passwords with Windows (and then use Microsoft Edge, Firefox, or Google Chrome). You can also use browsers other than Safari on a Mac with an iCloud Passwords plug-in or extension. However, if you or people you currently shared information with use Android, Linux/Unix, or ChromeOS, this migration won’t work for you: those platforms aren’t supported, and there’s no web app for iCloud Passwords.

Screenshot of 1Password view on Mac
You may have oodles of passwords and other items stored in your current password manager, as I do.

Because Joe Kissell and I have written entire books that help with different components involved in a password manager migration, I’ll include references throughout to appropriate Take Control series books. For a general grounding in passwords, for example, I recommend reading Joe Kissell’s Take Control of Your Passwords, updated earlier this year.

Map the data connections

As I noted, Passwords is best at passwords (and passkeys and TOTPs), and filling them in on webpages and in apps. If you care mostly about this, you’re in luck, as you can easily migrate data of these kinds:

  • Website and app logins: Account logins move to Passwords.
  • Loose passwords: Ones that have no direct connection to an app or site, like a bank card PIN, also move to Passwords.
  • TOTPs: These confirmation codes can be migrated. However, there’s a technical detail with how they may be stored by third parties (or Apple) that can prevent the migration and might require using a backup code; see details below.
  • Passkeys: The password “industry” finally developed and rolled out a secure copying system that Apple supports that will let you move passkeys among password managers. This requires migrating on an iPhone or iPad; you can’t move these on a Mac.

Two other categories of fill-in entries that aren’t managed in Passwords can be handled—and you may already be using—in Wallet and Safari:

  • Payment cards: Payment cards need to move to Wallet & Apple Pay. You have to enter these manually as AutoFill Cards, unless you’ve already done so or added the card to Apple Pay. It’s a little complicated, as I explain.
  • Identities: Apple supports filling in personal or business address information through Safari using AutoFill.

(You can see Safari’s evolution on the Mac at Safari: Settings: AutoFill: your personal contact now links to Contacts, user name and passwords to Passwords, and credit cards to Wallet & Apple Pay.)

Where you will be left hanging by Apple:

  • Miscellaneous secure items and attachments: If you store Social Security numbers and other account information that is distinct from a password, but you want to have available to fill in at particular websites or by searching Passwords, you can create these as entries in Passwords. In some cases, you may want to create entries in Notes (with additional security, described later).
  • Structured data: You may have bank accounts, passports, driver licenses, memberships, software licenses, or other structured information stored in a password manager. That is a trickier needle to thread, as Passwords offers no support beyond a Note field.

For both of these, you might want to migrate to… a password manager. But wait! This would be one you use solely for secure storage of these miscellaneous structured or less-classifiable items, not for field-oriented secrets and accounts you want to fill in.

There’s one more important migration issue:

  • Shared vaults and items: If you use a password manager that supports secure storage areas with other people—like vaults in 1Password, Dashlane, or LastPass, for example—Passwords provides something akin, though not precisely the same: Shared Groups. Because of the above provisos, many non-password items shared via a third-party manager will need to be migrated to Notes or another secured shared item-storage-based space.

Three big things that may derail the whole migration for you:

  • Tags/labels: Some people make use of metadata organizational systems, like tags. These don’t transfer to Passwords at all!
  • Extra data: Much like the paper card catalogs of yore had book information plus tons of annotation, accumulated over time, you may have used password manager features to add extensive notes, additional fields, include attachments, and create richly detailed records. All that will be gone, like tears in rain. True, Passwords has a Notes field, but it lacks structure, rich text, and Markdown support. If you move to another, more focused password manager, you may be able to retain this.
  • Access after you’re gone: Non-Apple password managers have recovery kits that could allow a relative or other party who has that information to gain access to stored, synced data. Apple’s Legacy Contacts system, which allows an executor or other authorized person to access your data when you’re gone, excludes iCloud Keychain: no passwords, passkeys, Wi-Fi passwords, or other data. However, Legacy Contacts must be activated; until it is, it’s possible for someone who retains access to one or more of your devices to view your passwords and other data in Passwords. (See Joe Kissell’s Take Control of Your Digital Legacy, or my Take Control of Your Apple Account.

One last bit of aggravation? Passwords does not yet support removing duplicates!

Plan your migration

As you consider migrating, I urge you to run your old manager and Passwords in parallel.1 Particularly if you store a lot of different kinds of data in your old manager, you may want to be able to consult it and migrate some of it over time. This can be a pain if you are paying an annual fee and the renewal is coming up soon. Consult the maker’s website to see whether you retain access to your data after a subscription expires and, if that bothers you, in what form.

The place to start is pruning old entries.

First, sort by last modified date. Did I know that nearly 2,200 of my 2,600 entries haven’t been modified since 2022? Some since 2008? I did not. However, you likely don’t want to delete these wholesale, because there may be secrets you can’t recover. Online backup private keys (such as with Backblaze), Bitcoin and other cryptocurrency phrases or keys, or other secrets you set once need to be retained or you lose access forever.

My strategy:

Screenshot of disk image creation in Disk Utility
Use Disk Utility to create a secure disk image and avoid saving password secrets to a backed-up location on your drive.
  • First, export everything. These exports are unencrypted and must be performed on your Mac. The export won’t include passkeys. (See below for that pathway.) This gives you a revert point. Because there are so many export formats across systems, I refer you to the software documentation to pick the best one. Warning: That file will be unencrypted and is like plutonium. Handle with care. The best plan is to use Disk Utility to create a disk image (APFS, 256-bit AES, Sparse Bundle Image), use a password you know or that is stored in Passwords, and then export directly to that encrypted image. The reason? If you save the file elsewhere, it might be backed up to Time Machine or become accessible in a way you didn’t intend. When unmounted, the drive is as secure as your startup volume. Just don’t forget or lose the password!
Screenshot of macOS version of 1Password's export options.
Exporting in the 1Password PUX format allows direct import into apps such as Strongbox.
  • Move all the older entries into a group. You might be able to create a group, tag all entries, or, in the worst case, move to a separate vault. In 1Password, the only strategy I found was to create a new vault called Outdated Entries and move all the older entries there. Warning: When selecting, make sure you aren’t including entries from all vaults, as that might move items you share with others or that others share with you.
  • Next, sort by name or title. This lets you scan through entries and identify duplicates. I found a number of items I’d already labeled “outdated,” or that were from services I couldn’t even remember. However, there were also a huge number of passwords and account logins that hadn’t been changed in more than four years—some for more than a decade! (There’s no reason to change uniquely set passwords routinely unless your current one is weak and a site is compromised. Most password managers, including Passwords, let you know about weak and reused passwords.) This process can be mighty tedious, which is why I’d recommend tackling it over time rather than all at once.

When you’re pruned, cleaned up, and otherwise reduced, you can now use the set you’re exporting; it’s time to go to the next step.

Export your secrets

Your best and first choice should be to use your iPhone or iPad; at this time, you can only perform a secure password storage transfer in iOS.2 Major password managers support this transfer method, which lets you move passkeys—it’s currently the only way to migrate a passkey.3

Here’s how it appears and works in 1Password:4

  1. Navigate to the export section of 1Password—that’s Lock (upper-left corner): Settings: Advanced: Start Export.
  2. Enter your account name; the app provides a hint. Tap “Approve export.”
  3. An explanation screen appears. Tap Continue.
  4. Choose the destination. In this case, tap Passwords, then tap Continue.
  5. Tap Continue in “Passwords,” and you’re switched to the Passwords app, where you can watch the import in progress.
Side by side screenshots of export process for secure password transfer in iOS.
You can use an Apple framework in several password managers to transfer secrets securely to another manager.

While this is the best method, you can also export from most apps in CSV (comma-separated values) format, which truncates most information and likely leads to problems. Warning: You will have to re-create your passkeys. You may need to use the desktop version of the password manager to export. In Passwords for Mac, choose File: Import Passwords from File, click Choose File, select the file, and proceed. This doesn’t overwrite entries.

Now, check important accounts:

  • Does the regular login work? If not, reset the password. Take this opportunity to upgrade to TOTP or a passkey if either is available.
  • Does TOTP or a passkey work for logging in? If not, find a backup code or another method to generate a new TOTP or passkey.

TOTPs have a particular idiosyncrasy. They are seeded with a secret generated by a website. The site displays that code as a QR code, so you rarely need to copy it, though Password and other managers allow you to do so. When migrating an entry with a TOTP, it might appear in its URL format, which is generically like otpauth://totp/user@user.user?secret=SEQUENCE in the Notes field instead of appearing as a TOTP within Passwords. If that’s the case, you can fix it manually:

  1. Copy the text after secret=.
  2. Tap or click Edit.
  3. Tap or click Set Up Code.
  4. Paste the secret you copied into the Setup Key field.
  5. Tap or click Use Setup Key.
  6. Tap or click Done.

If that fails, log into the website in question and use a backup code or other means to re-enroll with TOTP.

Enter credit cards, set up AutoFill, and move to Notes

Before getting started, I strongly recommend enabling Advanced Data Protection in iCloud. ADP improves iCloud security by encrypting nearly all application data—iCloud Drive, Messages, Photos, Notes, etc.—via keys stored only on your devices, just like iCloud Keychain. Without ADP, these kinds of data are encrypted in transit and at rest using only Apple’s encryption secrets, and could be demanded via a government subpoena or someone gaining access to your Apple Account. (Note that contacts, events, and email remain encrypted at rest, not end-to-end, because of the need for compatibility with third-party software.)

Follow the steps in the link to enable. You can also still access this information via iCloud.com through a process that enables a temporary end-to-end session. (For more about ADP, see Joe Kissell’s Take Control of iCloud or my recently updated for the 27 releases, Take Control of Securing Your Apple Devices.)

Now, work through these categories:

  • Payment cards: Use Settings: Wallet & Apple Pay on an iPhone or iPad, or System Settings: Wallet & Apple Pay on a Mac. Tap or click AutoFill cards and authentication. Now you can tap or click Add Card to provide the card details. This lets you fill in the card anywhere there’s a form field or wherever you can tap or Control-click/right-click in a field and bring up AutoFill as a menu item. AutoFill cards sync across your devices when Wallet sync is active in iCloud (Settings/System Settings: Your Name: iCloud: See All). For more on working with Wallet and payment cards, see my book Take Control of Apple Wallet. This information is secured end-to-end.
  • Identity filling: A different kind of AutoFill, for identity information, is found in Settings: Apps: Safari: AutoFill or Safari: Settings: AutoFill. Enable Use Contact Info on an iPhone or iPad, or check “Using information from my contacts” on a Mac. Now you can tap the entry next to My Info on an iPhone or iPad, or click Edit to the right of the checkbox label. This lets you pick an entry—you probably already did—and populate it with all the things you’d want to fill in on a form, including multiple addresses. Safari doesn’t protect identity information with ADP. However, the type of address and other information you would use are likely the least important to protect in what would be a very unlikely break-in to an Apple Account or one of your devices.

Screenshot of Safari for macOS Tahoe AutoFill dialog
AutoFill is a good dashboard for Mac-based ancillary personal data settings.

  • Fill in Notes: As I noted earlier, the structured entry style of third-party password managers doesn’t mesh well with either Passwords or Notes. Passwords has a single Notes field, which may be enough for some entries, but not the more detailed ones I describe. The Notes app is structured around entries, but it’s not well designed for hundreds or thousands, and it lacks inherent field data or structure. Judge what you’re storing in your old password manager to figure out if Notes could work. With ADP enabled, it offers strong security. For migrating structured data intact, read on!

Migrate structured data

If you’re looking to move structured entries, I suggest checking out Strongbox, but not for passwords, passkeys, TOTPs, and the like. Its developer offers a free syncing version (for iPhone, iPad, Mac, and Apple Watch) with everything you need except Touch ID/Face ID unlocking. That requires the Pro flavor at $24.99 per year, which includes several other features.5

Screenshot of Strongbox showing a software license entry.
Strongbox can be a good repository of structured data you want to keep secure.

Strongbox, unlike some managers, allows you to sync via a file under your control or through its secure syncing service, depending on your preference. This lets you keep your, er, digital strongbox under your personal control, if that matters to you. It can import from all major password manager export formats.

In testing, it preserved my 1Password structured data extremely well. This included tags. It also arranged my vaults into what it calls groups, letting me retain a sense of what I was sharing with others.

The one complication is that if you want to use one of the migration processes above to copy your items into Passwords, you have to do one of two things after performing your migration:

  • In your old manager, delete all passwords, passkeys, and TOTPs. This is dangerous in my accounting, as it reduces your ability to have a parallel working solution, and you could accidentally delete secrets you need to keep.
  • Import everything into Strongbox, then select all the passwords, passkeys, and TOTPs from Strongbox, and empty the trash. This gives you two copies of everything: Passwords and old password manager for secrets; Strongbox and old password manager for structured data.

When you’re ready to abandon your old password manager, maybe weeks or months from the migration, you can retain a securely stored backup copy or perhaps retain access depending on the product, while not using it actively or paying renewal fees.

Working in groups

Screenshot of PayPal entry in Passwords with Groups popup shown.
The Shared Groups approach is rigid, but does let you have discrete vault-like secret sharing with other people.

Sharing your passwords and other secrets with other people remains Passwords’ weakest aspect, because Apple offers only Shared Groups. Each entry can be stored only in your personal Passwords storage or in Shared Groups. Otherwise, you have to duplicate an entry, which can cause such entries to drift out of sync.

In the Passwords app, select any entry, then click or tap the Group pop-up menu. You can then choose an existing group or create a new one. When you make your choice, the password, passkey, or other item is now exclusively found in the Shared Groups section, not copied! Passwords doesn’t offer a copy or duplicate feature, so you have to re-create the entry if you want to share it with two or more groups that aren’t a complete overlap of the same people.

It may be easier to understand from a family perspective. Let’s say you have items you share only with your spouse, others with your children, and some with both. You can’t create a “spouse” group and a “children” group. You need to have one for your spouse, one for your children, and one for the whole family. This is where there’s real room for improvement by Apple.

The password rhymes with orange

I know this is a whole rigmarole, but I’m actually impressed that it’s finally doable in a reasonable manner. A couple of years ago, it was not. It was possible a year ago, but I wouldn’t have recommended it. Now, if you’re careful with each step, maintain a backup, and keep your old manager running in parallel as you complete the migration, you should be able to achieve success.

This article was updated on Sept. 10th to add missing details about fixing a broken TOTP import.

[Got a question for the column? You can email glenn@sixcolors.com or use /glenn in our subscriber-only Discord community.]


  1. Frankly, I’ve been in this state for years: iCloud Keychain and then the Passwords app weren’t robust enough for a long time; as Passwords improved dramatically, I’ve gradually moved items over and set up new passwords only in Apple’s system. ↩
  2. Apple supports this migration on all its platforms. It’s unclear why third-party storage apps don’t yet let you do it in macOS. ↩
  3. I have noticed more sites let us create at least two passkeys, which is handy if you want to have passkey login in multiple password managers during a transition. ↩
  4. This process can’t be screen captured on the device; I had to use another camera to take photos. ↩
  5. You can also pay $2.99 a month, which seems silly, or $124.99 for a lifetime license, which I’d wait on—if I were you—until you’re sure you’ll use it for a few years or longer. ↩
  •  

How to tap into network debugging

Glenn Fleishman, art by Shafer Brown

I know there’s no connection between my local area network and our house’s plumbing system, but when the faucet started running uncontrollably literally seconds after I fixed a network outage, I had to wonder: did we have a poltergeist? The jury is still out. But I can tell you that my hour of fruitless examination of router settings is to your benefit: you won’t have to do this when it happens to you.

The weakest TP-Link

As a guy known for Wi-Fi since the early 2000s, you might think my house is ablaze with wireless signals.1 Yes, it is: we have six Wi-Fi access points and gateways in a relatively small house by modern standards (about 1,200 sq. ft. on the main floor and 800 in the finished basement). But we also have Ethernet strung through the house to connect most of them, with powerline networking adapters where that doesn’t work due to the ancient and mysterious innards of the walls. The innards’ outsides are covered with heavy, old plaster, which absorbs some of the power of the Wi-Fi signals—hence the large number of emitters.

Normally, this works fine. We have four TP-Link routers, some purchased a while back, and a Netgear Nighthawk as our primary base station, which distributes network addresses and is connected to the fiber-optic ISP router.2 When something goes wrong, it’s usually an issue with a router crashing, even though its various green lights remain in a happy state.

This time, something was more deeply wrong. The TP-Link routers showed orange Internet connection lights, which in this case meant they were connected via LAN to the Netgear, but they couldn’t reach the Internet. Perversely, I seemed to be able to connect from my iPhone and my office Mac, which has both Ethernet and Wi-Fi connections active.3

TP-Link has one of the most irritating admin approaches for its routers of nearly any networked product I’ve ever used. You can connect directly, but it’s difficult to store the device’s password because it uses a potentially changing local IP address on your LAN. There’s also a centralized system where you can use an app called Tether or a TP-Link website to log in remotely to a router, even when you’re on the same LAN, rather than finding its local address. Tether also scans the local network, letting you connect even when Internet access is disrupted.

Screenshot of portion of TP-Link web-based interface.
I don’t think this screenshot can convey how deeply irritating this interface is when you’re trying to solve a problem.

Without the routers “seeing” the Internet, I couldn’t use the website, and Tether worked erratically. I eventually was able to figure out the IP addresses of two of the four routers, connect via a web browser, and find a working password for one of them. (To reset the password, you have to factory reset the router. That’s for a future day.)

But I remained baffled. My ISP gateway was up. My Mac could reach the Internet. The Netgear router seemed to be routing my Mac’s traffic to the Internet. Some of the devices on our network were also connected to the rest of the world. Had my TP-Link routers been compromised? Was something more sophisticated going on? Nope.

It’s coming from inside your smart house

Some of you may be yelling at me from the safe distance of your phone or computer. “Glenn, Glenn, why didn’t you check DNS?” The circulatory system of the Internet may be the IP-addressed traffic that passes over the series of tubes that make up the network. But DNS is the helpful labeling system, like an editorial cartoon that uses captions like “taxes” and “fat cats” to mark characters in an illustration. DNS turns human-readable domain names into the underlying numbers required for connections.

Screenshot of NTP settings on a Netgear router.
The NTP settings were a clue: they hadn’t updated. Here, I set them to an IP address, and the current time was immediately retrieved.

Surely DNS was working? My iPhone, Mac, and other devices were resolving addresses, or turning them from names into numbers. Then I found a clue in Network Time Protocol (NTP), a somewhat obscure bit of plumbing that also makes things tick. When I went to Advanced: Administration: NTP Settings on the Netgear, the last time it had been able to grab the current time and date was hours earlier. That seemed problematic.

Digging more deeply, literally, I found that the dig Unix command couldn’t pull up IP addresses from the Netgear router. On a LAN in which you’re using DHCP to handle local address assignment, your router may require that you enter Internet IP addresses for one or two DNS servers, or it might retrieve them automatically from your ISP. When a device on your network requests an address, the DHCP server assigns an address and tells the device to use the router address for DNS resolution. The router relays your requests to the real DNS server.

I tried dig @10.0.0.1 apple.com (use the router to return the IP address for apple.com) via Terminal on my Mac, and it timed out. I then tried the same lookup using my ISP’s DNS servers. Same timeout. The Mac had no problem with domain lookups, however, nor did my iPhone.

Screenshot of DNS configuration for Wi-Fi on a Mac.
Your router provides its own address as the DNS server in most DHCP configurations.

Now comes the time to insert a head-slapping emoji. Some time ago, and I can’t recall how long ago, I set my Netgear router to use my ISP’s primary and secondary DNS addresses. I know many people have switched to Google, Quad9, Cloudflare, or other free, public DNS servers to improve lookup speeds, which, at one point, would have helped speed up network operations tremendously because ISPs invested so little in their DNS operations.

However, using public DNS can cause issues in particular cases. For one, it can confuse content delivery networks (CDNs), which try to guess the closest server to you topologically based on your DNS lookup request to their servers. When that works, you’re getting the shortest path and likely faster throughput. Public DNS can misdirect CDNs, resulting in severe slowdowns in data transfers for big files and with streaming. Much of that has been resolved, but not all of it. I had had some issues, so I reverted from one of the public DNS services to my ISP’s servers. (This has largely been solved now.)

So what happened? My ISP, CenturyLink, must have had a DNS failure. I couldn’t get replies from its DNS servers when I checked (directly or via my router). I found postings later from other CenturyLink customers around the same time, but no public message from the company.

Why did my Mac and iPhone keep resolving? My Mac’s Ethernet connection had a manually set DNS server that was an alternate one provided by my ISP, one that apparently continued to work. I can’t explain the iPhone situation, unless it’s possible that iOS will pull DNS over a cellular connection when it fails over Wi-Fi—I don’t know that it does that, but I don’t have another explanation.

I removed my ISP’s DNS values, replaced them with 1.1.1.1 (Cloudflare) and 8.8.8.8 (Google), clicked Apply, and an hour of my time suddenly was marked on my internal spreadsheet as “wasted.”

Where I went wrong

I’m always trying to learn from my mistakes, particularly because I turn mistakes into opportunities to write columns like this one to save time for you, dear reader. In this case, I was led astray by the half-working network and the fact that, seemingly, only one brand of router in one configuration was failing. I should have remembered to start with DNS—and I will in the future.

If you’ve read this long, I’m sure you’re dying to know about the faucet. I had just finished fixing the network, walked to the freezer, grabbed a fruit-only frozen treat, and was walking across the kitchen when a small stream of water came out of the faucet. I tested the taps. I put the frozen delight back into the freezer, turned off the taps while my spouse was on speaker so we could figure out which tap’s cartridge decided at that moment to give up the ghost, and ordered a replacement. This was another kind of DNS failure: do not spout!

For further reading

While this column may have given you less confidence in me than you had before you read it, I share much more information about Wi-Fi, networking, and troubleshooting in my book Take Control of Wi-Fi Networking and Security.

[Got a question for the column? You can email glenn@sixcolors.com or use /glenn in our subscriber-only Discord community.]


  1. I wrote five years ago about my 20 years of Wi-Fi writing. ↩
  2. For irritating reasons, we have to use a particular router—provided free 10 years ago by the ISP—because of two network requirements that only a few routers support. It has a Wi-Fi network we can’t turn off and doesn’t allow the LAN networking features I want, so we’re running double NAT. I sigh deeply about this from time to time. ↩
  3. Some of Apple’s Continuity features require Wi-Fi to be active; otherwise, the Mac would solely be on Ethernet. ↩
  •  

Take Control of Siri AI and Apple Intelligence Ebook Now Out ↦

Apple’s overhaul of Siri and its expansion of Apple Intelligence are extensive. Take Control publisher Joe Kissell and I looked at this mountain of changes and opted to research and write an entirely new book, Take Control of Siri AI and Apple Intelligence, to help us get a handle on what’s new and thus pass it along to readers. This title is now available in its 1.0 release, ahead of the version 27 operating systems shipping in September. We also have our books on iOS 27/iPadOS 27 and Golden Gate available in 1.0 versions. All will receive free updates when the production versions ship.

We look at everything related to Siri AI, including the new Siri app and its ability to handle contextually aware conversations, the expansion of Apple Intelligence into new apps, enhancements to accessibility features, and, in particular, Visual Intelligence’s heightened prominence as a camera feature on the iPhone and iPad. We also dive into how Apple’s Private Compute Cloud works and associated privacy issues, particularly around the company’s extension of this on-device processing to Apple-managed hardware at Google Cloud.

Go to the linked site.

Read on Six Colors.

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Add your own stuff to Apple Wallet

Glenn Fleishman, art by Shafer Brown

Wallet on iPhone is a bulging catch-all. Apple stores all your payment card information there, and it’s an interface for adding and removing cards, as well as viewing associated details. It’s the place where you interact with your Apple Card (like scheduling payments or viewing transaction reports), the Apple Card savings account, and Apple Cash. But it also handles related but miscellaneous categories of other things: tickets for events, reward cards, membership cards, your library card… really, anything with a number, a scannable code, or a connection to payment winds up there.

Despite all that, Wallet has been deficient: you couldn’t easily add items to Wallet that the party issuing them hadn’t formatted and made available with an “Add to Apple Wallet” button, whether from a website or within its app. Starting in iOS 27—coming in September but available in a public beta now—you can use a new pass-creation tool to make your virtual billfold even larger. Third-party tools still fill the gap for iOS 26 and earlier users, or for those who want customization that Apple isn’t providing in Create a Pass.

Make your own Wallet entry

In iOS 27, open the Wallet app and tap the Add button in the upper-right corner. You’ll notice that among the options you’re familiar with, Create a Pass appears. Tap that.

If you have a device that supports Visual Intelligence and the pass has a barcode or QR code, tap Continue, and Wallet opens a camera sheet.1 When you tap the shutter button, Visual Intelligence analyzes the image and tries to extract elements, like your name, the organization name, or the code. If it can’t, it will offer a Try Again and Create Pass Manually dialog.

If it’s successful, Wallet next displays a preview screen. You can tap Add to accept the pass as it appears, or tap Edit Pass to modify the fields shown and the contents of those fields.

Side by side: photo of backside of food co-op membership card and pass created by Create a Pass in iOS 27.
Scan a card, even a munged-up old one like the at left, and Wallet can extract important details. I added the expiration date.

There’s a quirk in editing fields that baffled me for a while, but I teased out the answer in testing. Apple pre-populates field areas, marked with white rounded rectangles with subtle glowing edges. If you tap the Edit button (in the lower-right corner) and choose Add/Remove Fields, you cannot add new field areas. (See the figure for how I’ve labeled this.) What you can do is tap on an existing field within a field area to change it, or you can tap within a glowing rectangle (the field area) to add another field. This is not a great interface, and I expect it will mature.

Figure of a pass created in Wallet for iOS 27 with callouts indicating the various parts.
A field areas, as I call it, is a place you can add and remove fields from.

Tap the Palette icon to change the background color or choose a different background image from a small set in the Wallet library.

If Visual Intelligence isn’t available or you want to build the pass element-by-element:

  1. Tap Create Pass Manually.
  2. On the Choose Pass Template screen, pick the data format and default color scheme to use for your pass: Standard, Membership, or Event. This pre-populates different fields for you to fill out. (You can change the color later via the Palette icon.)
  3. Next, tap fields to enter data. Each field has a label in smaller type and placeholder text in larger type.
  4. Tap Add Code to scan a barcode or QR code.
  5. When finished, tap the blue checkmark.

You can then tap the Palette icon to change its appearance, or tap Edit: Add/Remove Fields icon to further edit the pass.

Side by side screenshots of the generic pass creation screen in Wallet for iOS 27 (left), and a field-editing sheet overlaying the pass (right).
If you create a pass manually, Apple adds a number of field areas and fields for you to modify (left). You have access to many different kinds of fields from an extensive list (right).

After the pass is added to Wallet, you can tap it, tap the More button, then tap Edit Pass. You can also tap Pass Details to see the raw information added. The View Original Photo button lets you bring up the picture you took if you used Visual Intelligence.

If you’re not yet using the iOS 27 beta or want options that Apple isn’t offering, you could try one of these free tools. Be aware, however, that Wallet passes have to be signed, so any data you provide to these companies is sent to them in the clear. Both have details in their privacy policies about how they protect your data.

  • Wallet Creator (iOS app) has over 80 prebuilt templates for existing businesses, or you can roll your own pass or card. Wallet Creator says the app collects no data. However, the App Store’s description for the app, under “Our Terms of Use & Privacy Policy,” provides more information about how data is sent to a server, processed, and deleted.
  • WalletWallet (web app) is a single-page form to create a pass. The page offers no privacy information, but it’s built using a business-oriented API the company makes, and that API has this explanation on the trip your data takes.

My book on Wallet, Take Control of Apple Wallet, will be updated later this year to incorporate all of this new information.

iPad and Mac have empty pockets

While Apple brought the Phone app to iPad and Mac in iPadOS 26 and Tahoe, the company still treats Wallet as a second-class citizen on those two platforms, even though both allow the use of Apple Pay. I’d love to have Wallet synced and fully available for managing all cards, not just payment-related ones, as a standalone app in the future.

[Got a question for the column? You can email glenn@sixcolors.com or use /glenn in our subscriber-only Discord community.]


  1. Visual Intelligence requires Apple Intelligence, which is available on an iPhone 15 Pro, iPhone 15 Pro Max, iPhone Air, or any iPhone 16 or 17 model. ↩
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